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ART AND CULTURE
By Saswati Borthakur
6 April, 2017
A lady wearing a Phulkari dupatta Punjab- The Land of Five Rivers, is a jewel in the crown that is India. In fact, the very word 'Punjab' come from the Persian words, 'Panj' meaning 'five' and 'Ab' meaning 'waters'. It is not just a state, it is an experience. This land is steeped in history and culture. It is known for its hard working people, its farmers, music, dance and the arts.Today, let's look at one of the most stunning example of art from the state- Phulkari. Literally translated, Phulkari means 'flower work'.
The basis of the Phulkari is a seamless amalgamation of the button-hole stitch, running stitch, darn stitch and cluster stitches. Only one strand is used at a time. The vertical, horizontal and criss-cross stitches give a light and shade effect. The base cloth is generally homespun and dyed. Since the cloth is sturdy, it doesn't need a frame to work with. Some patterns are so intricate that the colour of the base cloth becomes invisible. Let's take a look at some of the patterns and designs that have evolved.
Phulkari is generally done on fabrics used to cover the head like dupattas, scarves and shawls. Whereas, Bagh pattern is done on garments that cover the whole body.
There are many intricacies associated with the designs as well and the different designs are meant for different occasions.
A flower motif patternNeelak: The background is black or red and the embroidery is yellow or bright red.
Ghunghat Bagh: It is specially done as a head adornment. So, once it is pulled down to cover the face, it looks like a veil.
Chope: This variety is presented by the grandmother to the bride, before the wedding. It has embroidery on the sides and the centre is left plain.
Darshan Dwar: This is for adorning the walls and homes, especially when the Holy book of the Sikhs, Guru Granth Sahib is brought. It has designs of flowers, animals, birds etc.
A rare example of a 19th Century Darshan Dwar patternChhamaas: In this pattern, mirrors are sewn into the cloth.
A dupatta with Chammaas work, where mirrors are sewn into the patternSubhar or Suber : The embroidery has a central motif and at the four corners.
Vari da Bagh: It is usually done with golden yellow thread, done on a red cloth.
A classic Vari Da Bagh designBawan Bagh: Contains fifty two different patterns.
Surajmukhi: Incorporates Sunflower as the main motif.